The tips in this post appeared a while back in a way-too-long Cover FX post; I've separated the info to make it easier to find and to digest :-)
Before I get to the specifics of choosing your colour-correcting techniques, let me just babble a minute. The thing I love about seasoned makeup artists is that over the years they've developed an arsenal of techniques that work for a variety of issues, situations and skin types. As well, they know the ins and outs of all the latest application trends because they've been using those techniques for years, before they acquired new monikers such as "strobing" and "baking." They also know all about colour-correcting makeup.
When it comes to this year's technique trend, popular advice is to apply corrector colour where you think you need it, then tap your regular concealer or foundation over it. (Some suggest covering corrector with full-coverage foundation or concealer, waste of time and effort, really – full coverage formulas should allow you to skip the colour-correction step entirely.)
Longtime makeup pro Derek Selby (he's also the retail director for Cover FX) says there are a few different ways to apply corrector, and the technique you choose depends on one or two variables.
how to choose a corrector technique
"Sometimes dark shadows occur in a very specific area, and sometimes they look like a blur," says Derek.
If your shadows look like a blur, "apply the corrector straight from the tube onto the area and blend out with your fingertip."
If the discolouration is in a specific spot, "use a concealer and paint a small amount directly on top of that blue area, gently tap it into skin with your pinkie finger, then tap your concealer over it."
Some complexions are lucky; they don't need an additional layer of concealer. As the corrector goes on over the pigmentation or shadow, it takes on the shade of the surrounding complexion for a perfect match. "I can wear the Peach corrector on its own," says Derek.
But if your corrector looks a bit muddy on your skin, "you need a little of your usual concealer over it."
If your corrector looks chalky, "you first need a corrector with more pigment – orange vs peach – then you can determine whether you need to adjust with a touch of concealer on top."
And one more caveat: "Less is more," warns Derek. "Blend a touch of product on the skin then take a step back to determine whether you need more."
How do you work with colour correctors? Do you apply and cover with foundation, blend with foundation, or apply over foundation as needed?