Know that old saying, that people should notice you, not your makeup? Pshaw. Sometimes it's good for admirers to say "Omigod, your makeup is incredible." It'll happen with this Guy Bourdin-esque gorgeousness by Chanel national makeup artist Julie Cusson. We asked how Julie made 1970s glamour modern enough for the current issue of Dress to Kill magazine and for our 2013 New Year's Eve makeup.
Thanks in large part to Nars this season, you must know who Guy Bourdin is, right? A French fashion photographer in the 1970s, known for his provocative photographs? Ultra-glamorous makeup like this was typical of many of his shots (when you could see model faces). Here's the Guy Bourdain google link so you can peruse -- make sure your little kids aren't around when you do. Above: the book Guy Bourdin Polaroids was the source of Julie's inspiration; photo via Julie Cusson on Instagram.
"The way models are lit in Bourdin's pictures is always attractive because the makeup appears ultra feminine and skin tone perfectly satiny. All women become femme fatale," says Julie. "In fact this makeup is all about exuberance. Several different colors of eyeshadow, false eyelashes, strong blush, red glossy lips and nails create a striking look of elegance." Above: a crop of an image from the story "Rive Gauche" in Dress to Kill. Photography by Sylvain Blais.
The challenge for any makeup artist who takes inspiration from a distinctive makeup style of another era is making it look modern so modern audiences can relate. Without strategic changes that makes the image current, it just looks dated. "In Bourdin's style, the women in a shoot always wear the same color lipstick and usually the nail color matchs the lips," says Julie. She kept that concept; instead she and art director/photographer Sylvain Blais focussed on cheeks and eyes. Above: a crop of an image from the story "Rive Gauche" in Dress to Kill. Photography by Sylvain Blais.
"It was important for us to not put the emphasis on the blush as in Bourdin's work. So to create a modern view I applied a tender pink instead of a deep purple on the hollows of the cheekbones, without going to the temple."
"Blue and deep purple were often the eyeshadow shades in Bourdin's work. It was the 1970s," notes Julie. "To make the look modern, I replaced those colors with green and ivory, deep blue and gold." Above: an Instagram snap by Julie on the set of the shoot.
new year's eve makeup how-to
Seriously, if there's any time perfect for femme-fatale glamour, it's the night one year ends and another begins. This is so right for New Year's Eve makeup if you're heading to a soirée. Note: On brunette model Lara, Julie used Chanel Quadra Eye Shadow in Mystère ($65.99 at nordstrom.com) and Chanel Illusion d'Ombre eye shadow in Épatant ($40.26 at nordstrom.com). On blonde model Katrina, she used Chanel Illusion d'Ombre eye shadow in Initiation ($40.26 at nordstrom.com) and Apparition ($40.26 at nordstrom.com).
1) Apply your deep colour on the lid from the inner corner of the eye into the crease, and out toward the outer corners. Smudge the edges to soften.
2) Layer a lighter shade in the centre of the lid and onto the crease, patting it carefully over the darker colour. "You need to keep the purity of the light shade without blending into the dark too much," says Julie. Above: an Instagram snap by Julie, on the set of the shoot.
3) Use the same dark shadow along the lower lashline from the inner corner out to connect at the outer vee of the eye. Use a tiny makeup brush to apply the same shade along the lower waterline.
4) Apply false lashes and multiple coats of Chanel Le Volume de Chanel Mascara in Noir ($33.55 at nordstrom.com).
5) Sweep Chanel Joues Contraste Powder Blush in Pink Explosion ($48.09 at nordstrom.com) on the underside of cheekbones, toward temples.
6) Finish the lips with Chanel Rouge Allure Velvet Luminous Matte Lipcolour in La Précieuse ($38.03 at nordstrom.com), and paint your nails in Chanel Le Vernis in Rouge Rubis ($30.20 at nordstrom.com).
"The only think you have left to do is to make sure is you have a stunning outfit and hair to match this beauty look," says Julie. Photography by Sylvain Blais; styling by Yso.
So. Could this be your New Year's Eve makeup?
Models Katrina and Lara are represented by Next Canada. The December issue of Dress to Kill is on newsstands now. Follow Chanel national makeup artist Julie Cusson on Instagram. Want to know more about Guy Bourdin? This New Yorker blog post from 1994 is hard to read, but full of fantastic context.