Olivia Wilde is the only client celebrity makeup artist Melanie Inglessis has during the Toronto Film Festival this year. "My only and very busy client -- she's promoting three movies," laughs Melanie, who'll be doing two to three looks on the actress each day over a five-day period. Here she gives Beautygeeks the what and how for the first Oliva Wilde TIFF 2013 red carpet appearance, at last night's premiere for Rush.
To complement the simple lines of the black Roland Mouret dress Oliva wore, Melanie decided on a Brigitte Bardot-inspired look. "To keep it modern, we did glowing skin and kept the shape of the winged liner sharp."
olivia wilde tiff 2013 rush premiere -- face
"I love the Photoready Skinlights," says Melanie. "I mix it with the foundation, so the foundation gives a little coverage, and the Skinlights really gives that light, the illumination the camera will catch. It can be used on its own on her legs, or mixed with moisturizer for the collarbone and shoulders."
"When I'm done with the base, I use a little bronzer all over the outer part of the face very gently with a big brush to add depth. I put a little under the cheekbones and also on top where the sun would hit naturally. It's very light -- I don't want people to see it in the photos. It's not a bronze look; the bronzer is just to define and add depth and warmth," says Melanie. (See the Beautygeeks how-to video on subtle sculpting with bronzer here.)
"When Olivia is barefaced, she has natural highlights and depth -- we all do. But when I put foundation on the skin, I'm kind of taking that away," Melanie explains. "So I recreate depth with bronzer." To find your best bronzer for this subtle sculpting technique, Melanie says look for a golden shade, not orange or pink, and with very little shimmer.
A hint of blush keeps the look youthful. "I like to place peach or pink-y blush just barely on the apple of the cheek to add freshness to the look. I don't like to apply blush all the way up," says Melanie.
Makeup used: Revlon Nearly Naked Makeup in Fresh Beige, $12.95; Revlon Nearly Naked Pressed Powder in Light/Medium on the t-zone, $12.95; Revlon PhotoReady SkinLights Face Illuminator in Bare Light, $16.95; Revlon Bronzer in Sun Kissed Bronze, $12.95; Revlon Crème Blush in Rosy Glow, $11.95
olivia wilde tiff 2013 rush premiere -- eyes
Melanie focussed on liner and skipped eye shadow. "Shadow and a graphic black line is a different look," she says. "I did add a little highlighter under Olivia's brow bone and in the inner corners to open the eye up. On the inner corners, the highlight was the white pen on the other side of the black pen I used to draw the line. I used it very lightly, and pressed it in with my ring finger to smudge it a little bit. On the brow bone I used the light colour from the Sculpting powder in Pink, under the arch."
"I always start with a soft black khol pencil to draw the shape. Then with a pointy Q-Tip and makeup remover I sharpen that line. I ask my client to look straight ahead and concentrate -- nobody else can touch her, no hair and no manicure -- so I can take two seconds to make sure the wings and tips are the same on both lids when her eyes are open. And then I go over the khol with a liquid liner, which will give me that crisp, glossy, intense black line."
Makeup used: Revlon PhotoReady Kajal Eyeliner + Brightener in Carbon Cleopatra, $9.95; Revlon ColorStay Liquid Eye Pen in Black, $9.95; Revlon PhotoReady Sculpting Blush in Pink, $15.50; Revlon Lash Potion Mascara by Grow Luscious in Blackest Black, $9.95
olivia wilde tiff 2013 rush premiere -- lips
Makeup used: Revlon ColorStay Lip liner in Nudes, $9.95; Revlon ColorStay Ultimate Suede lipstick in Flashing Lights, $12.95. Photo, Greg Russell.
olivia wilde tiff 2013 rush premiere -- nails
To complement Olivia's dress and graphic eye makeup, Leeanne Colley, Revlon Nail expert and owner of Tips Nail Bar in Toronto, went for simple yet powerful impact with high-shine black lacquer.
Products used: Revlon Crazy Shine Nail Buffer, $5.95; Revlon Top Speed Nail Enamel in Black Magic, $6.50; Revlon Quick Dry Top Coat, $6.50
olivia wilde tiff 2013 -- the makeup prep
The red-carpet makeup prep starts days or weeks before the event. "We get a booklet from the stylist of each look," says Melanie. "Things change, but especially if I'm away and I have to pack, I like to know more or less what my client is wearing so I can prepare. I want to make sure I have this blue liner, or black liner, or this green liner because that would be great with that dress. I like to see the clothes in advance so I have everything in my kit flying here."
Whether Melanie does an all-new application or builds on makeup from earlier in the day depends on time and her client's schedule, as well as on how the day unfolds. "Today Olivia was running late. We had very little time, so I just went over what I had, which was very natural makeup already."
The ideal time frame for makeup alone is an hour, says Melanie. But that never happens. For a red carpet, a celebrity beauty team does hair, makeup and nails in tandem to maximize time. "Thank God I'm working with great people, so when I need a minute to perfect my liner, I can ask the hairdresser to just not touch her and she won't. And if she needs to blowdry the front of Olivia's hair, and needs me to step out, I do. When you work with a great team, you can do great hair and makeup in an hour."
Follow Melanie Inglessis on Twitter via @melaniemakeup -- that's her Instagram photo, above. Olivia Wilde TIFF 2013 styling by Karla Welch; hair by Mara Roszak; nails by Leeanne Colley. See more Olivia Wilde TIFF 2013 red carpet photos at justjared.com. Revlon is available at drugstores, mass retailers and well.ca.