Sometimes you have to be bad. Especially when your boss tells you to be bad.
To get the high impact, Ã¼ber-glossy red lip for Evan Biddellâ€™s Spring 2013 show at World MasterCard Fashion Week, Maybelline New York makeup pro Grace Lee instructed the backstage artists to break what has to be the most unbreakable rule in makeup.
â€œI told my team to overdraw the lips. Go against what you know and literally go over the lip line,â€ says Lee.Â â€œItâ€™s a makeup faux pas but weâ€™re doing it â€“ because we wanted the lips to look exaggerated.â€
We need to issue a warning here, like in car commercials:
Closed track. Professionals only. Do not attempt this at home.
(But definitely try this trend -- just colour inside the lines.
Remember those skills we learned in kindergarten?)
On the rule-breaking, larger-than-life lip, Lee painted lavish amounts of â€œMaybelline New York Ravishing Rouge 14 hour lipstick, because I knew how much gloss I was going to put on,â€ she explains gleefully. â€œAnd then we used the new [Color Sensational] High Shine Gloss ($9.99 at drugstores and mass retailers) in Gleaming Grenadine, layered right on top. And itâ€™s giving this powerful, super-glossy red mouth,â€ she concludes with immense satisfaction.
To draw even more attention to the generous, perfectly glossed mouth, Lee used no other colour on the face. Just some strategic highlighting. â€œWeâ€™re keeping the skin very matte on the forehead, and on either side of the nose to really make the contrast with that dewy shimmer on the outside of the face.â€
The dewy shimmer comes courtesy of another signature Lee move. Continuing her Backstage Beauty MacGyvering: Baby Lips Edition, she mixed clear Baby Lips balm with EyeStudio Color Tattoo Metal Eyeshadow in Barely Branded, creating a bone-coloured highlighter that she applied to â€œthe inner corner of the eye, the high planes of the cheekbone, and down the bridge of the nose.â€
For a final broken rule, and to draw even more attention to the mouth, instead of highlighting the cupidâ€™s bow of the upper lip, Lee focused on the â€œtwo little bridges of the mouth.â€ (Thatâ€™s the philtrum, for any word geeks among the beautygeeks.)
Eyes got nothing more than â€œreally curled lashesâ€ augmented with Volum' Express The Mega Plush Mascara, and natural brows held in place with clear mascara.
The result on the runway was a dramatic attention-getter that balanced Biddellâ€™s graphic prints and high-shine separates, but also looked totally at home with the Model-Off-Duty backstage uniform of black leather biker jackets and skinny jeans. Proof that a red lip really is versatile and infinitely wearable.
But if youâ€™re timid about rocking such a statement mouth (and you havenâ€™t yet graduated from the Janine Falcon Beautygeeks Bright Lipstick Academy) Lee suggests, â€œtake away the lipstick and just wear the High Shine gloss. Itâ€™s all about what you feel comfortable with.â€
â€œI donâ€™t think a bold mouth is going to go away,â€ she says. â€œI think itâ€™s here to stay.â€ Obviously, we do too.
* Unlike the Color Sensational Vivids and the Color Sensational Color Whispers youâ€™ve seen here over the past few days of Fashion Week, Maybelline New York Color Sensational High Shine Gloss is new(ish) but already in stores. So you can go and replicate this look Right Now. No waiting until Spring.
Model photo: Liza Herz