Get ready for some major geeky information, folks — useful geeky information if you’re a nail-gel fan, soak-off or otherwise.
Yesterday I wrote about the coming-soon OPI GelColor gel-polish hybrid which cures via light-emitting diode (LED) lamps. I was careful not to say UV is no longer a factor, however, because LED bulbs come in UV versions too. And while I’m still waiting for clarification from OPI, after a chat with our favourite expert Leeanne Colley, who makes it a point to keep on top of such things too, I’m pretty sure OPI GelColor, a gel hybrid polish similar to CND Shellac, requires UV light to cure. (Update: Yes, it does.)
So why bother mentioning the LED thing at all? Because gel or hybrid formulas designed to respond to LEDs will cure faster under LED UV lamps than in standard, salon UV compact fluorescent-bulb boxes — 30 seconds vs two minutes, it seems. That’s interesting news for anyone worried about the repeated UV exposure associated with gel and soak-off gel manis/pedis.
UV lamp exposure vs sunlight
If, thanks to a study that concluded UV nail lamps increase the risk of skin cancer on hands, you’re one of the worried, this might make you feel better. A report by three industry experts claims those results are way flawed.
The rebuttal paper is actually a pretty easy read, but to sum up, the authors had an independent lab measure the UVA/UVB output of the most common compact fluorescent UV nail lamps as well as the UVA/UVB in natural sunlight. According to their findings, UV nail-lamp bulbs apparently filter out most of the UVB. If each hand is exposed to 10 UV-lamp minutes every two weeks, real-life exposure shakes out about equal to a max of 26 unprotected seconds in the sun between appointments. As for UVA, lamp exposure is about the same as a max of 2.7 unprotected minutes per day between appointments.
pshaw to the tanning-bed theory
Yes, you could use your calculator to figure out how much extra sun exposure that could mean from now to your last UV-cured mani ever. If the answer freaks you out, take comfort in knowing you’re not getting anywhere near the same amount of damage you would if you were spending your mani time in a tanning bed, which blasts skin with much, much more UV than a nail lamp does. And maybe have a chat with your salon owner about gel/hybrid nail colour formulas that cure faster under LED UV bulbs.
Do you get UV-cured manis? Do you worry about the UV-lamp exposure? Does shorter curing time make you want to try an LED-cured formula/LED UV lamp combo instead?
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Perfect timing Janine! I got my first Shellac manicure two weeks ago and I love it. It still looks shiny and fresh and it’s mostly chip-free. But as my hands were “curing” under the UV lamp, I did worry that I was hurting myself for the sake of a chip-free manicure. I added “research potential health consequences of UV manicures” to my To Do list and imagine how pleased I was this morning to see that an expert I trust (that’s you) has done it for me.
Happy to help, Louise! :-)
I have a gel mani right now. My nails kept breaking and chipping and I couldn’t stand it anymore. I put on some sunscreen on my hands before I go to try and protect them. But honestly, I hardly spend any time in the sun so it doesn’t bother me.
I’m the same — sun-shunner! I do like the idea of reduced time in the lightbox, though.
Janine, this is a really well written post! I’m sure Mr.Schoon would agree.
I think the thing we all need to remember is we are all exposed to UV on a regular basis, we drive our cars (gloveless), we walk to the subway, and we sit under fluorescent lighting at work (yes its true). The risk of exposure during a manicure once a month using UV is very minimal compared to our daily lives.
Thanks for being such a *geek* and for calling me your expert :)
Hey, I needed to know about this stuff myself because I’m so hooked on Axxium! Thanks for all your help, Leeanne!
Ever since finding out that UV-light curing is potentially harmful, I’ve stopped using the machines. I used to use them multiple times, over and over again in one sitting – eeeek! Now I let my nails air dry – but that’s for regular polish. I’ve haven’t tried gel manis yet, but the reduced time of the LED method definitely has more appeal for me.
Well, they do need to be used after each coat of gel, certainly, so more than once per sitting. But the accumulated exposure isn’t all that much in comparison to our everyday experiences. Heck, changes we make in our daily risk habits would probably have more impact than giving up UV-gel manis.
Can’t say I don’t find the LED UV timing more appealing, though.
There’s a really good perspective on this and how insignificant the exposure is in Perry Romanowski’s book “Can You Get Hooked On Lip Balm?”
Actually, the book in general is packed with truthful, useful info. Pretty rare, most books like that are packed with lieeeeeees.
It’s a great resource, that book — reviewed and recommended it here.
Great article Janine! Always wondered what the effects were, if any at all. Thanks for the clarification ;)
Glad you found it helpful, Vivian! I’ve been wondering about this stuff for ages; glad I finally got the chance to investigate!
I’ve gotten UV Manicures for years and I love having perfect nails for weeks afterwards. I was worried about UV exposure even though the jury seems to be out on the risk. I’ve started using [fingertip-less] UV protective gloves and I don’t worry about it anymore one way or the other.
Ulta has come out with new gel polish and they are saying LED lamps. Is it the same as the UV lamp for OPI and CND polish?
Thanks.
Hi Susan,
If it has four nine-watt bulbs, then yes, it’s the same type of lamp used for OPI and CND soak off polish. Nailene is releasing an at-home soak-off gel-mani system including UV lightbox this Fall — is that the one Ulta is carrying?
UPDATE: Susan, I may have misunderstood your question. I believe you’re actually referring to OPI Gelcolor, which is LED-sensitive. That means Ulta will be using an LED-UV lamp to cure that forumula in 30 seconds per coat. But to cure CND Shellac, they still have to use a standard 36-watt fluorescent bulb lamp, which cures CND Shellac and OPI Axxium Soak-Off Gel (two minutes per layer).
What Wattage should the LED light be for curing OPI and CND gel polishes?
Hi do you know if axium gel will cure under led lamps, i would like a new lamp for my salon but would like one to suit all- is that a tall order? We use axium buff off, soak off and will get new gelcolor,although it doesnt launch in uk until early 2012.would appreciate any help
Hi Penny,
If you want one lamp that cures all, then a regular UV lamp will do it. A regular UV lamp will cure even LED-sensitive formulas — but they’ll take two minutes like everything else.
An LED UV lamp cures LED-sensitive gel in 30 seconds per coat. An LED UV lamp won’t cure Axxium, though, because Axxium’s formula is not LED sensitive.
Does that help?
Great post… I thought I was the only one wondering about this topic, as well as some of the questions people asked following the post. Thank you!
I don’t plan to wait 20 years to find out this type of light exposure on a regular basis has turned my 30 year old hands into 90 year old hands. Solution? I put on black leather gloves with the fingertips cut off before my manicurist applies the gel polish. Since the gel cures/dries right away, I just remove the gloves when she’s finished. And while the jury is still out on the light damage caused by this treatment (and will be until these products have been on the market for many years), every manicurist should be requiring her clients to use either gloves or sunscreen.
I found the comment on the uv verus led light very helpful.Knowing that uv lamp will cure all gel and shellac polish and led lamp will cure only led formulated polish has helped me to decide what lights to have in the new tables for the nail salon. thank you
If you were purchasing a lamp to cure both OPI Gelcolor and CND Shellac, which type of lamp would you purchase? I know, too, there are lamps that cure both types faster than the two minutes mentioned in most directions. Please help as I do not want to purchase the wrong lamp, and I would prefer to have a faster one as opposed to the two minute curing.
Hi Melinda,
To clarify, only LED-sensitive soak-off gel formulas can cure faster in an LED UV lamp. If you put Shellac in an LED UV lamp, it won’t cure.
So I’m sorry to tell you, you’ll need both types of lamps.
But good news: an LED-sensitive lamp will cure more than just OPI Gelcolor in 30 seconds per coat. It will also cure Gelish, Entity and Artistic Colour Gloss in 30 seconds per coat. They’re all similar to Shellac when it comes to finish and quick soak-off time, but with many, many more amazing colours and faster curing time.
Hi I am a student at the moment and I have a gel soak off product called GelLux it can be curied under LED or standard UV can you tell me what wattage the LED needs to be to Cure the polish as there are lamps from 3W+