Get ready for some major geeky information, folks — useful geeky information if you’re a nail-gel fan, soak-off or otherwise.
When I wrote about the coming-soon OPI GelColor gel-polish hybrid which cures via light-emitting diode (LED) lamps, I was careful not to say UV is no longer a factor. That’s because LEDs come in UV versions too. And besides, gel manicures require ultraviolet light to set. And while I’m still waiting for clarification from OPI, after a chat with our favourite expert Leeanne Colley, I’m pretty sure OPI GelColor, a gel with a consistency and finish similar to CND Shellac (a hybrid of gel and polish), requires UV light to cure. (Update: Yes, it does.)
UV manicures and pedicures absolutely can increase the uv exposure on your hands and feet. But you can render that exposure pretty much harmless by wearing sunscreen. And you can reduce the amount of time you need in a UV lamp by using an LED-sensitive UV gel or hybrid with an LED unit. Gel or hybrid formulas with LED-sensitive ingredients will cure faster in LED UV lamps than in standard, salon UV compact fluorescent-bulb boxes — 30 seconds vs two minutes. Plus, you can rest easy that standard UV lamps and LED units emit a fraction of the UV you get from sitting outside at lunch time without sunscreen.
UV lamp exposure vs sunlight
If a 2009 study that suggested UV nail lamps increase the risk of skin cancer on hands has you worried, this might make you feel better. A report by three industry experts claims those results are way flawed.
The rebuttal paper is actually a pretty easy read, but to sum up, an independent lab study funded by nail-industry experts revealed that UV nail-lamp bulbs filter out most of the UVB: 10 UV-lamp minutes every two weeks = 26 real-life UVB-exposure seconds. That’s why your hands won’t burn or tan at each salon visit.
The UV in UV lamps is pretty much all UVA, the “aging” UV rays. That makes this scary: 10 UV-lamp minutes every two weeks = about 37.8 real life UVA-exposure minutes. That’s more than half an hour of extra unprotected UVA exposure every two weeks, but don’t freak out — it boils down to 2.7 minutes of UVA exposure per day.
pshaw to the tanning-bed theory
Yes, you could use your calculator to figure out how much extra sun exposure that could mean from now to your last UV-cured mani ever. If the answer alarms you, take comfort in knowing you’re not getting anywhere near the same amount of damage you would if you were spending your mani or pedi time in a tanning bed, which blasts skin with much, much more UV (#giantmicrowave).
minimize your risk
So the short answer to “should we worry about UV-gel manicure exposure” is this: Cut UV-lamp exposure time down by switching to a nail colour formula — Artistic Colour Gloss, Entity, Gelish, OPI GelColor — that cures faster in LED lamps. And apply broad-spectrum UV protection before your mani or pedi.
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UPDATE JAN 2013: This study published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology in December 2012 — last month — sheds more light on the aforementioned report by three industry experts. There was a technical issue, but the conclusion was about the same:
“Although some sources of UVA and UVB contribute to the development of KCs [keratinocyte carcinomas], UV nail lamps do not appear to significantly increase the lifetime risk of KC. Dermatologists and primary-care physicians may reassure patients regarding the safety of these devices.”
UPDATE MARCH 2013: Here, another sensible voice in all the UV mani = cancer fear-mongering: Allure.com.
Do you get UV-cured manis? Do you worry about the UV-lamp exposure? Does shorter curing time make you want to try an LED-cured formula/LED UV lamp combo instead?
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Perfect timing Janine! I got my first Shellac manicure two weeks ago and I love it. It still looks shiny and fresh and it’s mostly chip-free. But as my hands were “curing” under the UV lamp, I did worry that I was hurting myself for the sake of a chip-free manicure. I added “research potential health consequences of UV manicures” to my To Do list and imagine how pleased I was this morning to see that an expert I trust (that’s you) has done it for me.
Happy to help, Louise! :-)
I have a gel mani right now. My nails kept breaking and chipping and I couldn’t stand it anymore. I put on some sunscreen on my hands before I go to try and protect them. But honestly, I hardly spend any time in the sun so it doesn’t bother me.
I’m the same — sun-shunner! I do like the idea of reduced time in the lightbox, though.
Janine, this is a really well written post! I’m sure Mr.Schoon would agree.
I think the thing we all need to remember is we are all exposed to UV on a regular basis, we drive our cars (gloveless), we walk to the subway, and we sit under fluorescent lighting at work (yes its true). The risk of exposure during a manicure once a month using UV is very minimal compared to our daily lives.
Thanks for being such a *geek* and for calling me your expert :)
Hey, I needed to know about this stuff myself because I’m so hooked on Axxium! Thanks for all your help, Leeanne!
Ever since finding out that UV-light curing is potentially harmful, I’ve stopped using the machines. I used to use them multiple times, over and over again in one sitting – eeeek! Now I let my nails air dry – but that’s for regular polish. I’ve haven’t tried gel manis yet, but the reduced time of the LED method definitely has more appeal for me.
Well, they do need to be used after each coat of gel, certainly, so more than once per sitting. But the accumulated exposure isn’t all that much in comparison to our everyday experiences. Heck, changes we make in our daily risk habits would probably have more impact than giving up UV-gel manis.
Can’t say I don’t find the LED UV timing more appealing, though.
There’s a really good perspective on this and how insignificant the exposure is in Perry Romanowski’s book “Can You Get Hooked On Lip Balm?”
Actually, the book in general is packed with truthful, useful info. Pretty rare, most books like that are packed with lieeeeeees.
It’s a great resource, that book — reviewed and recommended it here.
Great article Janine! Always wondered what the effects were, if any at all. Thanks for the clarification ;)
Glad you found it helpful, Vivian! I’ve been wondering about this stuff for ages; glad I finally got the chance to investigate!
I’ve gotten UV Manicures for years and I love having perfect nails for weeks afterwards. I was worried about UV exposure even though the jury seems to be out on the risk. I’ve started using [fingertip-less] UV protective gloves and I don’t worry about it anymore one way or the other.
Ulta has come out with new gel polish and they are saying LED lamps. Is it the same as the UV lamp for OPI and CND polish?
Thanks.
Hi Susan,
If it has four nine-watt bulbs, then yes, it’s the same type of lamp used for OPI and CND soak off polish. Nailene is releasing an at-home soak-off gel-mani system including UV lightbox this Fall — is that the one Ulta is carrying?
UPDATE: Susan, I may have misunderstood your question. I believe you’re actually referring to OPI Gelcolor, which is LED-sensitive. That means Ulta will be using an LED-UV lamp to cure that forumula in 30 seconds per coat. But to cure CND Shellac, they still have to use a standard 36-watt fluorescent bulb lamp, which cures CND Shellac and OPI Axxium Soak-Off Gel (two minutes per layer).
What Wattage should the LED light be for curing OPI and CND gel polishes?
Hi do you know if axium gel will cure under led lamps, i would like a new lamp for my salon but would like one to suit all- is that a tall order? We use axium buff off, soak off and will get new gelcolor,although it doesnt launch in uk until early 2012.would appreciate any help
Hi Penny,
If you want one lamp that cures all, then a regular UV lamp will do it. A regular UV lamp will cure even LED-sensitive formulas — but they’ll take two minutes like everything else.
An LED UV lamp cures LED-sensitive gel in 30 seconds per coat. An LED UV lamp won’t cure Axxium, though, because Axxium’s formula is not LED sensitive.
Does that help?
Great post… I thought I was the only one wondering about this topic, as well as some of the questions people asked following the post. Thank you!
I don’t plan to wait 20 years to find out this type of light exposure on a regular basis has turned my 30 year old hands into 90 year old hands. Solution? I put on black leather gloves with the fingertips cut off before my manicurist applies the gel polish. Since the gel cures/dries right away, I just remove the gloves when she’s finished. And while the jury is still out on the light damage caused by this treatment (and will be until these products have been on the market for many years), every manicurist should be requiring her clients to use either gloves or sunscreen.
I found the comment on the uv verus led light very helpful.Knowing that uv lamp will cure all gel and shellac polish and led lamp will cure only led formulated polish has helped me to decide what lights to have in the new tables for the nail salon. thank you
If you were purchasing a lamp to cure both OPI Gelcolor and CND Shellac, which type of lamp would you purchase? I know, too, there are lamps that cure both types faster than the two minutes mentioned in most directions. Please help as I do not want to purchase the wrong lamp, and I would prefer to have a faster one as opposed to the two minute curing.
Hi Melinda,
To clarify, only LED-sensitive soak-off gel formulas can cure faster in an LED UV lamp. If you put Shellac in an LED UV lamp, it won’t cure.
So I’m sorry to tell you, you’ll need both types of lamps.
But good news: an LED-sensitive lamp will cure more than just OPI Gelcolor in 30 seconds per coat. It will also cure Gelish, Entity and Artistic Colour Gloss in 30 seconds per coat. They’re all similar to Shellac when it comes to finish and quick soak-off time, but with many, many more amazing colours and faster curing time.
Hi I am a student at the moment and I have a gel soak off product called GelLux it can be curied under LED or standard UV can you tell me what wattage the LED needs to be to Cure the polish as there are lamps from 3W+
USE GLOVES!! I’m a regular user of soak off gel polish like shellac, I too never thought anything of the occasional light UV exposure (same as ten minutes in the sun etc..). The backs of my hands always felt a little strange afterwards but I dismissed it. It was not until my husband pointed out that my hands were noticably tanning that I decided to act. Fingerless gloves are the way to go. Don’t dismiss UV exposure, no matter what ‘industry expert’ tells you they’re safe and harmless.
Hi Ursula — how long had you been going for UV manicures before your husband pointed out your hands were noticeably tanned? Seems unlikely they’d be tanned from the nail lamps; the bulbs filter out UVB, which is what makes the skin darken.
Is any of the skin revealed by the fingerless gloves darker than the rest of the skin on your hands?
Hi I was given the Mally nail gel set from QVC. The light claims that is it LED, but I’m wondering if it does give off any UV light. I have been using gelish polish because I prefer the colors and it works great with that light!
Thank you!
Hi Sarah,
Yes, those LED bulbs emit UV light, just like the fluorescent UV bulbs in standard nail-salon light boxes. Their output is a specific, smaller range of ultra-violet rays that speak to a specific ingredient in gel nail colours such as Gelish, Entity, Artistic Colour Gloss and OPI Gelcolor. That ingredient + LED UV light is what cures the colour so quickly — 30 seconds per layer instead of two minutes per layer.
I’m going to check on a couple of things before I answer the question below. I don’t know about “small tunnels” created by Shellac — doesn’t sound feasible because it’s a thin product that coats the nail just like regular polish and gel products. But I’ll check.
Nails don’t exactly breathe, but they are a little porous. I’ve had back-to-back soak-off gel manicures for about two years now, and my nails and nail beds underneath are as healthy-looking as they ever were. I usually go three to four weeks between manicures; there’s a fair amount of bare-nail regrowth by that point.
The biggest plus about going without polish for a few days every month is to ensure that there isn’t a fungal issue, which can happen if something gets trapped under your polish or gel colour. (It’s never happened to me; I go to a salon of experts who are super-skilled at soak-off colour application.)
I was also wondering if you have heard anything about the breathability of nails underneath the polish. Supposedly Shelac creates small tunnels that allow cuticle oil to get down to the natural nail. Any thoughts on this vs gelish? Should there be a period where you go without any nail polish to let your nails rest?
Doubtful re: Shellac. It blankets the nail the same way nail polish and liquid soak-off gel blankets the nail — it fills any ridges to create a smooth finish.
What everyone seems to forget is that nails continue to grow. You see regrowth within a couple of days of application; at the end of two or three weeks, the new, bare regrowth is obvious. It’s not like the entire fingertip has been shrink-wrapped in some suffocating substance.
As well, nail health and cuticle health are linked. My expert, Leeanne Colley, has been doing soak-off manicures including Gelish, OPI Axxium, Entity and Shellac pretty much since they all came out. She says to dab cuticles regularly with cuticle oil. As the oil conditions the cuticle, it will also penetrate the nail to keep it flexible and healthy.
If you’re seeing a good technician, you don’t need to take a break for nails to “rest.”
Do you know if an LED or UV lamp is REQUIRED to cure OPI GelColor, or does it just help the polish to cure faster? Meaning, would I be able to purchase just the GelColor polish and give myself my own gel manicure at home without the use of an LED or UV lamp? can i just let them dry real good in between coats, or will it not work at all without a lamp? Thanks!
Hi Tiffanie,
Excellent question! An LED UV lamp will cure the OPI GelColor base coat in 10 seconds and colour in 30 seconds per layer. But you’re right in thinking direct-sunlight exposure will also cure the gel. Go ahead and try it — just be sure to apply the colour away from direct sunlight. According to my go-to pro Leeanne Colley, if you use the brush close to a bright window, the brush will harden very quickly.
Please report back; would love to know how it turns out!
Okay, so what watt led light do i need to buy to cure my opi gel from Sephora? Can i buy a regular screw in led bulb from a “home” store and hold my hand under the light bulb for 30 seconds?
Hi share –
For best results, you’d need a proper LED UV lamp, not just a random LED from your local hardware store. You’ve got to make sure the gel cures properly; uncured gel is toxic and can result in skin reactions.
Hi, I have a question I hope someone here can answer or lead me to an expert.
I purchased an UV lamp for curing gels and removed the blue plastic covering on the inside plate (right after I installed the bulbs). I am not sure if this was bad and if I have ruined the lamp. I Can not find an answer and have searched for hours in the net until I found your site. The box of the lamp does not list contact information or manufacturer info. Thank you in advance for the information.
Hi Jessica,
You have NOT ruined the lamp — that blue plastic is just a protective film that needs to be removed before use. Kind of like the plastic that comes on new lampshades, new-car dashboards and new appliances :-)
Thank you, I could not find the answer to that question anywhere in the net!
I read an article that did extensive studies on LED vs UV. They tested Shellac in the LED light and OPI gelcolor in a UV light. There was no difference in the results. What do you think of this? I just purchased the Sephora by OPI gelcolor LED light and now I’m worried that I can’t use Shellac in it.
Hi Jaimee,
I might need to see that article. That there was no difference in the results makes no sense to me. Either the soak-off formula contains LED UV-sensitive ingredients (“photoinitiators” that respond to specific light wavelengths in an LED UV lamp) or it doesn’t. If it doesn’t, it won’t cure properly in an LED UV lamp at the recommended exposure — and you may not be able to tell just by looking whether or not it’s properly cured.
Why is proper curing important? Because curing makes the formula safer for wear. Improperly cured gel can cause skin irritation or allergic reactions that can be fairly severe (swollen, painful fingers, anyone?).
If it’s being sold with an LED UV lamp, Sephora by OPI Gelcolor contains LED UV-sensitive ingredients. Shellac does not. Also, Shellac is a professional product. It’s safer to let professionals use it as directed with the recommended lamp. Otherwise you could be taking your health into your own hands. Literally.
Hi Janine,
I have a question that I can’t find an answer to, and I stumbled onto your site – amazing by the way!
I’ve used shellac and Gelic polish for a few months now and love it, as no other polish stays on my nails for more than about 12 hours, no matter what it claims. The last few times I’ve done my nail I’ve been getting an allergic reaction on the skin around my nails – itchy, red, bumpy skin, which lasts about a week. The reactions have been getting worse each time, and now are becoming unbearable.
I researched to see if it was the rubbing alcohol, so tried vodka instead, which worked a treat on the nails, but the reaction still occurred. I was wondering if I’ve grown intolerant to the lamp? Or the nail polishes themselves? Help!
Thanks, Kim
Hi Kim,
Thanks re: site… and ouch — that doesn’t sound like fun. Your poor fingers! What lamps are the technicians using to cure your manicure? A CND lamp for Shellac and a Gelish lamp for Gelish? If you’re having your nails cured under a different lamp — or a faulty lamp — could be the product isn’t curing properly, even if it looks as though it is.
Improperly cured gel or hybrid polish is toxic, and can result in allergic reactions that sound a lot like what you’re dealing with.
The lamp itself shouldn’t provoke that kind of skin reaction. The UV exposure is far less potent than sitting in the sun for 10 minutes.
I suspect you’ve become really sensitive to the polish. I’m still taking a guess, though, based on everything I’ve read and the experts I’ve spoken with. You might like to visit the Facebook page for Doug Schoon, a well-known expert and educator in the industry. He’s open to questions and may have more information. Good luck.
I started using OPI gel with led light,I have bubbling in the polish after we complete all the steps, This is bad,then peeling starts.any suggestions?
Hi Regina,
I’m sorry, I missed your question. Did you find an answer? I’m assuming you’re using OPI Gelcolor with an OPI Gelcolor lamp. If yes, could be the application needs adjusting — practice. Thin coats.
Hi,
So my question is, what is the appropriate strength or wattage of the LED UV to cure the LED appropriate gel polish? I am looking to get the starter set of Orly SmartGel in Australia which comes with a LED lamp, and curring time is something like 30 secs per coat. However I have heard that Gelish is a wonderful product and would like to use the Orly SmartGel lamp to cure Gelish. WOuld that work?
thanks
Nail guru Doug Schoon insists that each lamp is designed to work with the specific formula with which it is associated. However, some nail experts think that isn’t always true. Gelish, for instance, is manufactured by the same people who manufacture Artistic Colour Gloss (both pro lines), so you might be fine using Gelish with an Artistic Colour Gloss lamp. But there are no guarantees, and definitely no guarantees re: an Orly lamp with Gelish.
Schoon worries that a non-affiliated lamp may not cure the gel properly (even though it might LOOK properly cured), which could lead to skin reactions.
I used to get the UV gel finishes when I used to get permanent French Manicure done on my nails. This was in fact years & years prior to the UV gel manicure craze. I always wondered about the lighting. I always felt my face had a slight tan after I was done and my hands would feel dry. I can’t say I haven’t tried any of the at home UV Gel kits but I know my sister has and this is wonderful info to have. Beauty & Geeks? I think I found my nirvana lol
Hah ha! Welcome :-)
Happily, UV lamps for nails filter out the UVB — those are the rays that cause immediately visible damage… aka tan. So even with gel-manicure appointments every two or three weeks, the skin on your hands won’t get any darker than the rest of you.
Hi I have been doing my own nails now for about 12 month. Range of polishes and led uv lamps. I have quite sensitive skin and I must say I have never yet had a reaction or any problems. I do find that the polish usually only lasts about a week when I work (I work as a nurse) however this in brilliant compared to the few hours I can get at most from a normal polish. :) have to say for those in doubt it is DEFINITELY work a try. :)
I recently purchased a Bluesky Shellac 3W LED lamp and gel polish. However i was disappointed by the product as the polish peeled and chipped after a week and was difficult to remove. I want to make sure I purchase good quality gel polish. What gel polish could i use with this lamp ?IBD ?CND shellac. I don’t want to waste money and be disappointed again
Hi Mel,
Giving advice on what gel works with what LED lamp is very tricky — to be safe I can only recommend you use the gel that was designed to work with the lamp. When you play mix and match with lamps and gel brands, you run a risk of the lamp not setting another brand’s gel properly, which can lead to skin reactions.
Of course it’s up to you if you want to test a variety of gel brands with your lamp. :-)
I purchased a Nail led lamp advanced technology 12 watt and Opi gelcolour. I want to make sure that I can use that gel colour with this lamp
Hi Jasna,
OPI GelColor is LED sensitive, so an LED lamp should work. But I can’t give you a more concrete answer than that; the whole issue of mixing UV lamps and gel brands is tricky. You might want to check with Doug Schoon, an industry expert. You can reach him via his Facebook page.
I just bought a Nailene UV lamp. Does anyone know if it is a good one and wich brands of gel polishes are good to be used with it. thanks.
Hi There, what a great page with lots of good advice. I have recently purchased CNC Shellac system, OPI GelColor polishes and another gel polish brand, with each set I use their own base and top coats. I have both a UV lamp and a LED UV lamp. I bought the latter as the reduced curing time and UV exposure appealed, however I do not seem to be getting good results when I use the LED lamp, the polish wipes away with the final alcohol step. I have tried curing at 30′s, 60′s and 90′s with the same result from each different time frame. Can you offer any advice? Thank you.