“I love beauty. It’s not my fault.”
Valentino Garavani
I hear there’s a seven-hour version of Valentino: The Last Emperor, and I’m fixin’ to see it. Whether or not you’re “into” fashion, the 90-minute version you’ll see in theatres is just a teaser for a slew of fascinating personalities (Antoinetta the Sewing Harridan! Michael the Butler!), behind-the-scenes details (including Valentino’s team of skilled seamstresses, none of whom uses a sewing machine — you’ll understand the price of couture) and bittersweet workings of a fading fashion era.
Valentino is also the best reality-TV you’ll see on the big screen. The sophisticated word for it is “documentary,” but it doesn’t convey the level of entertainment the film delivers. You’ll see OTT personas (mostly Valentino’s — he carries himself like an emperor, aloof, contained and mysterious — but watch for the busty former-model socialite in the too-small sample-size gown), bickering-schoolboy arguments, quietly tender moments, delightfully funny scenes, spectacle and celebrity fans.
At the Isabel Bader Theatre in Toronto this past Monday, producer/director Matt Tyrnauer told us, a preview audience, that even he was surprised at how easy it was to get filming approval from Valentino and Giancarlo Giammetti, his companion and business partner of nearly 50 years. He speculates that they really didn’t understand they were the focus. Both very private men, their naiveté about the documentary is evident on screen. In fact, they hated the film when he finally let them see it at its first screening — they were wild-eyed and panicked like escapees from a mental asylum (his characterization, not mine!). They thought the movie was going to be all about the glamour, beauty and celebrity of their fashion world, not the intimate story of their relationship.
How Tyrnauer got that intimacy on film is one of his best stories. It hinged on key advice he got from famed fashion photographer Bruce Webber: hire male models to work for you and you’ll get double the face time. Genius. The two models were a hit — Valentino and Giancarlo apparently used any excuse to have them present.“‘My darling, we need the puppies. Bring the models,’” quotes Tyrnauer in a Valentino-esque accent.
“We trained the models to put the microphones on Valentino and Giancarlo,” Tyrnauer told us. (Miking was a more complicated task than it sounds, what with the artful tie and collar arrangements that only look as though no time at all was spent on them). Then it was “‘My darling, when do we get the microphones?’” And those microphones catch every conversation detail, including my favourite “your belly is showing” scene (you’ll see).
So, other than fleeting on-screen appearances from “Fashion File” host Adrian Mainella and FT’s Jeanne Beker, how is this related to Made-in-Canada Month? From the very first screening, Tyrnauer’s relationship with Valentino, who he calls “the most difficult man on the face of the earth,” was… uneasy. (The filmmaker likened it to a war with a cross between the Mafia and La Cage aux Folles.) Although audience appreciation was clear from that first showing, it was a screening at Toronto’s Wintergarden Theatre last September that turned things around. After a 15-minute standing ovation, which, according to Tyrnauer, Valentino accepted from the balcony with an Eva Perón air, the designer finally seemed to accept the accolades as though he had never doubted any other response. Apparently Valentino now says things like, “Matt, I really want an Oscar.” And Tyrnauer hasn’t yet told him that he, not Valentino, would be taking Oscar home if the film were to win one.
Did I tell you I once met Valentino? It was the launch of the Rock’n Rose fragrance in New York, November 2006 (technically, it ought to be ’n’, but grammar clearly isn’t important on packaging). Valentino was seated on a charming couch in a cosy hotel room with about 15 beauty journalists perched on chairs in a half-circle around him. His answer to every question was beauty, that the scent was for beautiful girls who shop by day and party at night, who know how to dress themselves beautifully, without effort… beautiful, beautiful, beautiful. (In the middle of our meeting, Valentino’s cel phone rang, and yes, he answered it, had a little convo, then graciously returned his attention to the room.) After the Q&A, each editor was invited to sit by him for a photograph — which reminds me, I haven’t seen mine. Not ever. Wonder what happened to it?
Valentino: The Last Emperor opens tonight in Canada. See it. Then let’s talk about catching the seven-hour cut in NYC.
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{ 11 comments… read them below or add one }
You did it! Love your review. Wow, you are rockin’ this Friday. F is for on FIRE.
For some reason replies are out of order, so I’ve had to re-post. This reply originally posted 11 July 2009 at 12:34 am.
You’re AWESOME for that “F is for on FIRE,” KF! Thanks so much – I was a tad uneasy with a few elements but knew I had to get it up there. I’ll probably keep editing over the next week or three… tee hee!
Yes, what ever happened to that photo?! I also remember imitating his sign off to that phonecall for the rest of the day: “Pronto….” in that thick Italian accent..
Now I’m wishing I was at this screening rather than the press one I went to since you got a Q&A with the director.
originally posted 11 July 2009 at 12:49 am
Yes! “Prrronto….” I love that you were there! Did you not ever see your photo either?? We have to ask Lisa Festa! (I can’t remember the name of the Miami press agent who seemed to be everywhere. It was a noteable name, yet I’ve forgotten it.)
And that huge party at the top of 7 World Trade Center, that cavernous room overlooking nighttime New York, Valentino and his entourage, and running around playing “spot-the-celeb”? Wasn’t one of the Olsen twins there?
OMG, just followed a link to a photographer who shot that party for GAWKER, and beautiful French Judith is in one of the photos!!! But of course. http://tinyurl.com/nmdz9s.
Mostly I just remember my dress was too tight and I was trying to hide in a little black jacket. Erk. I was envious of the way a lot of people there were dressed.
I know, I wish you’d been at this screening, too! When Tyrnauer started dishing, I knew you’d have loved it, because it was so full of great details. He does an hilarious imitation of Valentino, calls him the LEAST intellectual man ever, talks about some of the other footage that would make separate movies… and all with humour, not a trace of cattiness. That Q&A elevated the night to another level.
You’ll have to sit with Liza (amazing memory), Katherine and me and see how much we can tell you that I couldn’t fit in here. Leah Rumack introduced Tyrnauer, who of course I now have a total crush on because the man can use words and tell engaging stories with humour and clarity. (Sheesh.)
OMIGOD I just thought of the other BEST story Tyrnauer told… I’m putting it in a new post!
Mabe was her name. And yes, an Olsen twin was there, as was Zac Posen. And you smoked that night. It hurt my eyes to see, as well as my heart!
Ooh, I’m so bummed I missed the dishing! Had no idea Rumack was introducing!
originally posted 11 July 2009 at 11:16 am
Mabe, that’s right. I forgot about that cigarette transgression! Whoops?
So glad you got to see it! I was going to go that too but had pink-eye. S is for Sucks I had pink-eye & didn’t get to go see the film. I can never get over the fact that Valentino is so “orange”…
originally posted 11 July 2009 at 6:04 pm
Ohhh, S is for Sucks indeed :-( I’m still mentally replaying as much of the Q&A as I can remember. So much great dishing.
And O is for Orange in a BIG way! And the “your belly is showing scene” is so a “Will & Grace” moment between Will and Jack, except with a little less theatrically boy-bitch flair — which actually makes it so much better because it’s REAL!
Delicious read!
originally posted 14 July 2009 at 12:15 pm
Thanks, RR! I can’t wait to hear what you think of the film.
Love the clip….can’t wait to see the movie! There’s something to be said about the fashion world – we all love it! The endless leading edge of styles that make us feel so important & beautiful – it gives us some type of power. However, ironically after the purchase it can often quickly lose its charm! I guess it’s because we are always hunting. Fashion – it is definitely an addiction!